Author: Theresa Whalen, AALP Class 4
Alumni from 12 classes and two generations of the Advanced Agricultural Leadership Program (AALP) recently explored Cambodia and Vietnam, continuing their lifelong pursuit of curiosity, knowledge, leadership, networking and friendships old and new.
Southeast Asian hospitality is known for treating visitors like family, and the tour guides quickly noticed the closeness of AALP’s 27 travellers, affectionately dubbing them the “Sticky Rice Family.”
The tour began in the Phnom Penh and Siem Reap areas of Cambodia, where the group explored agricultural production and processing for cashew nuts, rubber, cassava and bananas.
In Cambodia, about 50 per cent of the population farms, and roughly 75 per cent of those farmers operate on a small scale. Main crops include rice, cassava, rubber, maize, mangoes, bananas, Kampot pepper, coconuts and citrus fruits. Many farmers also keep a few cattle, pigs and chickens for household use.
Cashews are ready to harvest when the nut protrudes from the bottom of the “apple” and the fruit falls to the ground. The fruit is gathered, the nut is separated from the apple, and the nuts are sun-dried for at least two days before being stored in jute bags for final processing.
Cambodia’s brighter historical chapters came to life at the Royal Khemarin Palace, the official residence of King Norodom Sihamoni, and its Silver Pagoda, named for its floor of solid sterling silver tiles. The group also visited Bayon Temple, famous for its colossal stone faces, followed by the Terrace of the Elephants, Terrace of the Leper King and Ta Prohm, a 12th-century Angkor Wat Buddhist temple overgrown with jungle and admired for its dreamlike qualities.
Lotus silk is a significant specialty in Cambodia. The delicate fibre from lotus stems is hand-harvested and used to make rare, eco-friendly fabric. The stems must be harvested and processed within 24 hours while still wet or the fibres will break. Production is highly labour-intensive, requiring 6,500 to 10,000 lotus stems to create a single scarf.
A boat ride to the floating village of Chong Khneas on Tonlé Sap Lake offered a glimpse into a community of about 3,000 people, or 700 families. Electricity comes from solar panels or generators and is used only for basic needs. The floating village includes a school, church, stores, a pub, boat repair shop, fuel station, water station, small livestock farms, gardens, homes and other everyday services all on boats. Beneath some boats, murky waters held caged farms of crocodiles and fish. Wild crocodiles are extinct in the area due to hunting, yet demand for farm-raised crocodiles remains strong for both leather and meat.
Then it was on to Vietnam. The first stop was Ho Chi Minh City, formerly known as Saigon and still called Saigon by many locals. French control of Saigon from 1858 to 1954 remains visible in the city’s architecture, from the cathedral, post office and opera house to many hotels and homes, all functional reminders of the not-too-distant past. The French once fancied Saigon as “the Paris of the East.”
Also clear were memories of the Vietnam War (1955–1975), referred to in Vietnam as the American War, and the French Indochina War (1946–1954). A few hours at the War Remnants Museum offered a chilling reminder of the devastation of these conflicts and the lasting impact of dioxins from chemical weapons used continue to have on generations.
This was followed by a visit to the Cu Chi tunnels, a complex maze of underground passages, chambers and booby traps used by Viet Cong soldiers as hiding places, communication and supply routes, field hospitals, and storage spaces for food and weapons. Although the Viet Cong suffered high casualties, they were highly effective in unconventional warfare against conventional military strength, relying on surprise and deception.
From the ashes of war has risen a thriving agricultural sector. A drive to the Cu Chi district included a stop at the Agricultural Management Center for Research and Development and Hi-Tech Park. This government-backed project promotes urban agriculture through research, technology application and the production of high-quality crops and livestock. Other production tours featured orchids, pearls, mushrooms, vegetables, fish and one of the largest worm farms in the country.
Vietnam is the world’s second-largest coffee producer and exporter, after Brazil, and produces more than 40 per cent of the global Robusta supply. Concentrated in the Central Highlands, production focuses on high-yield Robusta, which accounts for 95 to 97% of output and generates more than $5 billion in export revenue.
Try a Vietnamese Egg Coffee at home!
Vietnamese Egg Coffee is a rich, creamy Hanoi specialty created by whisking egg yolks with sweetened condensed milk and other ingredients into an airy, custard-like foam and layering it over strong, hot Robusta coffee – designed to counteract the intense coffee bitterness with a sweet, luxurious topping. The flavour is often compared to Tiramisu or eggnog.
Recipe: (makes 2 servings)
- In a deep and narrow bowl, separate 3 egg yolks discarding the whites, then add a tablespoon each of sweetened condensed milk, honey and caramel sauce. A tablespoon (or more!) of rum may be added too, optionally.
- Whip together the above ingredients for 2-3 minutes until stiff.
- Gently pour the egg mixture into two cups that are one-third to half-filled with strong, hot coffee.
- Sprinkle the top with chocolate powder or shavings.
- Serve each coffee cup in a bowl of hot water to keep it hot.
- Enjoy the creamy egg froth with a small spoon, then stir the remains into the coffee and enjoy it to the last drop!
A boat ride to the Cai Rang floating market revealed a unique waterway economy where produce is wholesaled directly to retailers. Growers begin bringing products to wholesaler boats at about 3 a.m., and retailers arrive around 5 a.m. to pick up produce for the day. Everything from meat and fish to fruits, vegetables, clothes and household items are sold there. With no refrigeration, most sales wrap up before the heat of midday. After hundreds of years of operation, the market is declining as modern land warehouses and trucking replace traditional water access.
The last stop was Hanoi, where the Vietnam War came alive again with a visit to Hoa Lo Prison, also known as the “Hanoi Hilton,” which held U.S. prisoners of war. Although many atrocities occurred there, U.S. pilots reportedly received better care toward the end of the war, leading to lifelong friendships between individuals from the two cultures.
Vietnam’s saltwater pearl production is a significant industry, particularly in coastal areas such as Phu Quoc Island and Halong Bay. Pearl farming is considered sustainable because oyster beds help clean the surrounding water. The process blends traditional techniques with modern, eco-friendly practices to cultivate high-quality pearls. Non-jewelry-grade pearls are often crushed and repurposed for products such as cosmetic pearl cream.
Vietnam’s saltwater pearl production is a significant industry, particularly in coastal areas such as Phu Quoc Island and Halong Bay. Pearl farming is considered sustainable because oyster beds help clean the surrounding water. The process blends traditional techniques with modern, eco-friendly practices to cultivate high-quality pearls. Non-jewelry-grade pearls are often crushed and repurposed for products such as cosmetic pearl cream.
The final night was spent cruising Halong Bay in northeast Vietnam, a UNESCO World Heritage Site known for emerald waters and thousands of towering limestone islands topped by rainforests. Junk boat tours and sea kayak excursions allowed travelers to explore the Sung Sot Caves and the inlets of Cát Bà National Park.
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